Seoul – South Korea

Day 30. Exactly halfway through my trip and I can’t help but smile looking out of the window as the plane launches down the Mongolian runway under a bright blue sky despite the guy sitting next to me insisting on leaning against me for some unknown reason. I have a vague idea of how to get to my next hotel thanks to advice from fellow travel companions, but the fact I’m heading to a completely new country with a completely different language is masked by the feeling that I’m on a domestic flight, only three hours long, landing late afternoon, and filling me with a false confidence that I can get to my hotel room with zero complications, or effort for that matter. Remarkably, that’s how it turned out. Getting through the airport in Seoul was effortless, my bag had arrived, I located the train terminal, topped up my travel card, and found a train which effortlessly delivered me to Seoul’s central train station an hour later. I walked out of the station brimming with confidence until I realised I had no idea which side of the station I had exited and so no idea where the road to my hotel was, and no internet to use Google maps which is pretty much useless in South Korea anyway due to their national security laws. But no matter, it was still light, and Seoul is a remarkably relaxed and dare I say peaceful city relative to others which means wondering around searching for a hotel isn’t too stressful. I found my bearings and within 20 minutes I was in the correct shower freshening up for the evening.

My dear sister asked why on earth I was going to South Korea because surely I would die, I assume because of the manic dictator living next-door in North Korea. Seoul does lie remarkably close to the border not that it’s relevant these days with long range missiles, and the world does look determined to destroy itself, but I don’t intend to let such issues worry me. Besides, there are few other sensible options that could deliver me from Mongolia to New Zealand, and since I hadn’t been to South Korea I figured it would be a good excuse to stop off, rest and recuperate, and wash all my kit in anticipation of NZ border control getting angry because I dared walk in a wilderness other than their own. I had no other reason for visiting, but thankfully I had been given a heap of recommendations, most of which revolved around eating, walking, and views, and so that’s what I set out to do.

As mentioned, Google maps doesn’t really work in South Korea and so I downloaded their local map app and ticked the box to be able to use it offline. The modern-day traveller would have got a sim card, but I refuse to go through all that hassle for only a three day stay, even in a country with limited English and a city that is designed to by super easy to use with a smartphone. I would have been happy to hide in the hotel for the entirety, sleep and read, but I forced myself out the door fully prepared to explore the city on my first full day. My plan was to walk to a market and then across town to a tower for a view of the city, on the map it all looked jolly doable. My first mistake was looking out the window, seeing it was cloudy and deciding against a cap and sunscreen; naturally, 20 minutes after heading out, the sun beat down ferociously and relentlessly for the rest of the day. The walking route I had created on the map app then decided to disappear almost immediately and refused to work offline as hoped rendering me lost and navigating the old-fashioned way. In fact, I decided it was quite nice not to be tied to an app directing me as I turned onto a random street full of food stalls and shops with plenty happening. I should have eaten my way down the street but no, I foolishly stuck to my plan. I finally made it to the market via a delightful urban river only to find that everywhere appeared closed which probably shouldn’t have been a surprise for a Sunday lunchtime. Getting progressively annoyed I ventured on, latching on to the hum of distant people until I came across a scene of absolute carnage. A large portion of the market was indeed closed but the area selling food was in full flow and rammed with locals and tourists alike. Here I intended to eat. What, I don’t know, partly out of the vast amount on offer, partly because I had no idea what it was on offer. I had to push through crowds to get anywhere, and every food stall was surrounded by fully occupied seats. All I had to do was find a solitary seat and pick something that looked edible and appetising while nodding and smiling to the random people sitting either side of me. I had a good walk around, building myself up to the big moment, looking for a good option, and then walked straight back out onto the main street and headed for my next stop.

Having turned down two perfectly good areas of town to eat due to fear of the unknown, I made the usual mistake of assuming I could grab some food from somewhere easy as I walked across town towards the N Seoul Tower. That never happened either, suddenly it was mid-afternoon, I found myself climbing an unexpected staircase up an unexpectedly steep hill while excreting an unattractive amount of sweat. Locals in their much older stage of life than me appeared to glide up and down the never-ending staircase as though taunting me. Finally, I emerged through the trees and bush to be greeted by impressive views of the city below me and the small mountain range that shelters the city from the unpredictable north. The N Seoul Tower sits proudly on top of a hill and offers enhanced views to anyone willing to pay for a trip up to the viewing deck. I did not, for this was the first day of three where I intended to get a view of the city through different approaches. I instead walked around aimlessly in the hope I could find the way down the other side of the hill, uncertain, I instead fell upon a little bar with a deck offering views, chairs, shade, and cold beers. Considering my plight, a single bottle of cold beer brought everything into perspective, and I basked in the glory of what I had achieved while regrouping to consider my next move. The beer had satisfied my thirst, but the afternoon was fast coming to an end and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast; it was time to initiate operation shrimp burger.

An essential recommendation made to me was to try the McDonalds shrimp burger whilst visiting South Korea, apparently a burger so good that it could be eaten multiple times a day without getting boring. I found my way down from the N Seoul Tower and headed in the general direction of my hotel while factoring in a stop for McDonalds. I didn’t feel ashamed because I was bloody starving and I was confident I could work a McDonalds restaurant. I strolled in and placed my order for a shrimp burger meal, stood back, and waited vigilantly to be shouted at in Korean to collect my prize. A sign in large letters and written in only English advertised that McDonalds South Korea does not sell fish, vegan, or halal options, and absolutely does not sell BBQ sauce. However, they will serve your drinks in reusable plastic cups should you wish to dine in. I like this no-nonsense approach to fast-food dining. Ironically, I had to wait quite a while before excitedly opening up my Korean inspired McDonalds delicacy which turned out to taste exactly like any other McDonalds burger. This was always going to be the outcome as let’s be honest, this is why I went, because I knew whatever I chose to eat would be familiar and tasty. I had been in Seoul for 36 hours, failed to embrace the food culture, and I’m okay with that because I can’t get a McDonalds shrimp burger in the UK, and I had another 48 hours to get back on track.